Wheel Set Assembly

Due to variation in supplier your kit may come with either a white injection moulded drive gear or a black profiled gear. If supplied with the black gear then you do not need the 3mm spacer plate but use 1 no. 5mm washer on every bolt between the gear and the back of the wheel.

 

 

 

Above - mould mark on the nylon wheel. This face goes towards the wheel/spacer

Above - nylon gear and 3mm spacer

 

FIXING THE WHEELS TO THE AXLE

Thread loc is a wonderful product and in theory is strong enough to hold the wheels on the axle without any other type of fixing. In practice we have seen wheels break loose and spin on the axle. We therefore suggest one of two methods

  1. Press on the wheels

  2. Key in the wheels

Method number one is preferable as it allows the wheel set to be disassembled by simply pressing off the wheel. The disadvantage is that you require a good press with a large throat .

One of the supply options it to supply the wheel set pre assembled - see price list for current price.


Pressing on the wheels

Before pressing on the drive wheel, slightly loosen the three bolts on the nylon gear. This allows the gear to centre on the axle rather than the bolts. Apply bearing fit to the inside of the wheel and the axle shaft. Only press the driving wheel on at this stage as you need to build the motor assembly on the axle.

When pressing on the wheel place the wheel on the base plate of the press and press the axle down. Do not push the axle in in one go but release the pressure after the first few milimetres. This makes sure that the axle is going in straight.

 


Keying in the wheel

 

While some manufacturers don't key their wheels on we would thoroughly recommend it, especially given the amount of power going through the wheel sets. To achieve this you will need to file a flat spot in the wheel centre and a corresponding flat spot on the axle.

The flat on the axle needs to extend past the wheel so a wedge can be driven in. See picture on the right.

   
File a flat spot with a small file Using a piece of 1mm steel strip cut a 15mm long piece and file one end down. Continue to file until it fits tightly in the slot between the axle and wheel and lock the two together. Now take the wheel off the axle, clean the all the surfaces with a grease free cloth and apply thread lock to the axle and wheel.

Assemble and align the slots. Apply a small amount of thread lock to the slot then drive the wedge into the slot.

NB the threadloc may be oil tolerant, but a clean surface will give a much stronger bond.

 

Pliers to help stop the wedge bending One of the problems is how to strike the top of the wedge. For the first 3 wheels you can use the fourth wheel as a hammer. Use a pair of fine nose pliers to stop the wedge from bending (rather slow it down, as it wil bend).

For the last wheel follow the instructions below.

The upper wheel is used as a hammer

 

Drive in using a flat piece of steel or a balster chisel with a sharp flat edge. Once it has gone in, cut leaving around 2-3mm proud. If the key moves while you are cutting it then it has not been driven in hard enough.

Using a large flat bladed screwdriver (or the balster chisel) drive in the wedge the last couple of milimetres. Leave to set before filing flat.

The picture to the right shows 3mm projection of the key. Using a flat ended screw driver this was hammered in flush.


The above procedure is repeated for the other wheel once the motor assemble has been slid on to the axle.

Before fitting the other wheel make sure the bronze bushes are well oiled before applying threadloc to the wheel. This should stop any stray threadloc from sticking the motor mount bush to the axle.

 

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