Assembling the Chassis

Cranked Version

  • Slide on to the each end of the axle two washers* followed by the axle boxes. If the axles boxes don't slide on they may required to be slightly opened up using a round file.

* These are the 10mm washers supplied. They will need to be filed out to 11mm. If you end up with too little space, either find thinner washers or you can lightly file the back of the axle box. I use a flat bit and slightly reem out a recess on the back of the axle box for the washer to sit in.

  • Make sure that you use even spacing so the wheel set assembly is central, otherwise one set of wheels may catch the motor support plate on the underside of the decking.

  • Next holding the axle with the motors hanging down place the axle box guide plates over the axles. Then put the spring base plate and the spring in the space of the guide plate.

  • Lower the whole assembly down on to the up turned chassis. The axle guides go on the outside of the side frames. Locate the spring base plate so the notch in the side frame comes up inside the spring and the plate is sitting tight to the frame.

Above - Having the nylon gears on opposite sides is not critical, just one option. If the wheels are keyed in correctly, which side the nylon gear is on does not make any difference.

  • Put a couple of bolts in each side just to locate and hold the assembly.

  • Repeat for the other wheel set assembly making sure that the nylon gear is on the other side. This is not essential but just good practice.

  • Do not start on the coupling rod sets. It is preferable to test the engine without them fitted (just in case the motor sets get wired wrong way round).

  • Bearing Version

     

    • Assembly is similar although you do not need the washers between the axle box and the wheels.
    • As the frame spacing is set for the cranked version (and to aviod clashing with the buffers) you need insert the supplied 1mm washers in to the axle boxes before assembly.

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