Motor Assembly |
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For 2010 model onwards
Due to the lack of supply of Fasco motors we have opted for standard supply of DC motors from the automotive industry
Motor Basics Right - the inside of one of our motors - clearly shown is one of the two sealed ball race bearings + the brush gear which is located at the rear of the motor. These motors are used in the automotive industry which is a much larger market than 5" gauge engine manufacturers. As such there should never be a supply issue as we have seen on many previous occassions. |
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Preparing the Motor
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Due to the
close proximity of the motor to the axle you will need to
slightly modify the motors mounting ring. Grind or file a groove as per the picture on the left. What you need to do is remove the raised lip of the exisitng mounting ring to allow the axle to pass. The cut in the picture was made with a grinding disk and has just caught a bit too much. |
| Cut the three motor mount tags down using a saw or tin snips to leave only the 5mm hole. | ![]() |
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Before fitting the motor
in to the mount you will need to fit the oilite bearings
to the mount. To do this we recommend using Loctite 603
bearing fit. This is oil tollerant and stands a better
chance of fixing the beaings.
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| The motor mounts shown differ as they are
now supplied with a drop piece at the gear end which
offers protection of the nylon gear. Do not mount the motor at this stage. |
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We now supply the motors with the metal
gear pre fitted. Should you wish to mount your own please
note the following -
We can supply the gear un bored with shoulder which could be machined to provide grub or pin fixing. |
OLD FASCO MOTOR CONSTRUCTION - pre 2010 models
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To take pressure off of the motor by
clamping the spindle end in a vice and cut down the outer
face of the gear with a hacksaw. Support the motor while
cutting and be careful not to drop it as you cut. Clean the end of the gear and spindle with a file and make sure there are not sharp or rough pieces sticking out |
| To help support the motor while drilling, stand it on three of the axle guides - as shown in the picture to the right. This will support the motor and keep it level while you drill. |
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| If you don't have a pillar drill, then
try and drill at the correct angle. Cheap pillar drills
are around the £40 at most DIY superstores and are a
very good investment. Once you buy one you will wonder
how you ever managed without it. Keeping the spacer between the motor and the gear, drill a 1.5 mm hole down between the spindle and the gear (as diagram below) to a depth of about 6mm. Hold the metal gear while you drill to stop it turning on the motor spindle.
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Once drilled remove the gear, clean and apply thread lock to gear and spindle. Leave the spacer on the motor slide the gear back onto the spindle. Line up the two halves of the 1.5 mm hole and insert a 1.5 mm pin. Make sure this pin goes in the full depth of your hole. Do not drive it in hard as you may damage the motor. The best 1.5 mm pin is the shaft of the 1.5 mm drill bit. Stick the back end of the drill bit in the hole and using a pair of pliers snap it off as close to the gear as possible. |
Turn the motor on its side, remove the spacer and clean any stray thread lock from the spindle. Leave the motor on its side until the thread lock has set (check that the thread lock hasn't run down the spindle) before filing smooth the end of the spindle, gear and locking pin.
Repeat the above for all four motors.