12v Colour Light Signals

12v LED Colour Light Signals

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Finally after a search of over two years we have sourced some proper coloured lenses to create some good looking coloured light signals.

The cover plate is easily removed to allow easy access for bulb replacement.

These signals are supplied on a 500mm pole.

Options available

Pastic or metal pole
Metal base plate or yellow plug (plug can only be fitted on plastic pole)
Metal pole, base plate and ladder

Why put a signal on a plug?

While these signals are quite robust, exposure to the elements over the seasons will see its appearance suffer. By making them easy to install they can be put away in dry storage at the end of a days running. For the club scene they can be stored in a secure place away from out of hour visitors.


Above - A standard 110v socket.

Signal Prices

	Signal on Plug -Oval Face, plastic pole mounted on a plug which allows them to be removed when not in use. Kit - £34 Finished - £44 Automatic Signal Contains circuit board for track circuiting. Kit - £50 Finished - £58		Signal - Metal Pole and Base Oval Face Kit - £36 Finished - £45 Automatic Signal Contains circuit board for track circuiting. Kit - £52 Finished - £60

	Signal with Metal Pole, Ladder and Base Plate Oval Face Kit - £72 Finished - £82 Automatic Signal Contains circuit board for track circuiting. Kit - £83 Finished - £100		Signal with Metal Pole, Feathers & Ladder Square Face left or right feather Kit - £87 Finished - £98 Automatic Signal Contains circuit board for track circuiting. Kit - £99 Finished - £110 No ladder or base - deduct £30
	Separate Control Board Kit - £12 Finished - £16


	Yellow / Red Lenses -As alternative to red green -no extra charge		110v Socket -Use in the ground to allow plug signals to be put away. - Jubilee clip to angle iron post for quick installation. £5.50

	Continuity Bond -Pair of link wires to bond across fish plates £3.50		Spare Lamps (bulbs) LED MES bulbs - £1 each specify for red or green lens

Instructions

HELP

Problem	Possible Cause	Solution
Signal fails to change to red	Dirty rail - especially steel rail Broken wire or loose wire	Clean rail with wire brush Check wiring - test board with link wire between L and SW terminals. If board works, trace wires and test rail connections.
Signal fails to return to green after train leaves section	Current leakage between the rails Metal swarf in section break	Check that the load bank bulb is working. Switch off the circuit then switch on - Goes to green then you are looking for low loss - swarf in section breaks, excessive water on sleepers etc. Reverts to red then you are looking at a section short or wire fault - see below.
Signal sticks on red	Wire fault (short) Rail/section short	As above + check if using override wire, this is not powered.
Bulbs are dim	Voltage drop Loose connections	A bulb at the end of a 30m wire is noticeably dimmer due to the resistance of wire. If possible feed power to signals in a central position. Check all connections are tight and dry. Wet connections can cause loss of power.
One bulb not lit	Bulb failure	Replace bulb
Both bulbs not working	Bulb failure Power failure	Replace bubls - both could have failed especially if the signal has been dropped Check power supply to the board/socket

Please Note

These signals are designed to run at 12v only
The method of train detection has worked well on our own railway. It is not totally fail safe and should be used with this point in mind.
All signalling set ups should be fully assessed before and during use.
The use of high voltage power in the garden is covered under the building regulations and needs to be carried out by a competent person.
Alway use a RCD for any high voltage (240v) cables that run in the garden

Paul